Opera and tango

Day 4. Sunday 24 November

There were no tours organised for us today but we had already planned to visit the opera house and to check out a milonga (tango club) for the afternoon.

The weather is gorgeous, sunny and warm but with a pleasant light breeze so we walked through the avenues to the opera house.  It being Sunday, most of the shops were closed so it was quiet even in the city centre.  One thing struck me, I have not heard a single horn beeping and no one pushes past you, it's always con permiso and gracias.  

People are very polite and I like that.  I also liked the dog park we saw, what a good idea, but we weren't sure why someone had hung their knickers, bra and wellies on the railings.

We found the Av de 9 Julio with its 16 lanes and crossed the Plaza de la Republica and a short way down the street was the milonga that Sue Byles's Argentine friend recommended. Outside on the pavement were the basic 8 tango steps you could practise while you waited for it to open, so we did.

Back to the opera house for our tour in English. It was started in 1803 but had a troubled history.  The first architect died after he had built the first set of arches, the second one worked long hours but went home early one night to surprise his wife.  She was very surprised as she was in bed with the butler, who promptly shot the architect.  So people started to say the job was cursed and no Argentine would touch it.  Fortunately a Belgian architect took over the job and completed it.  It's the second biggest opera house in the world with 3100 places of which 600 are standing places.  These spaces were made deliberately for the many immigrants, mainly Italians who outnumbered the native citizens of Buenos Aires by two to one.  There are seven levels of boxes and the higher ones are women only, men only and the top one where apparently the acoustics are the best, is mixed and called el Paradiso because it's so high.  Right down at the side if the stalls there are several seating areas behind ornate wooden grills, these were for widows so that they would not be seen enjoying themselves!  

On the ceiling is a magnificent chandelier from which singers or groups of musicians play on occasions.  Apparently modern surround sound is nothing in comparison to this experience.

We viewed the auditorium from two different boxes and it was splendiferous though the photos don't do it justice.

 

 We also saw the Golden Hall which used to be a meeting area for the well to do patrons but is now used for small recitals and rehearsals.

We hailed a taxi back to the hotel and I have got to say that none of the taxi drivers we have met know where the hotels are unless you can give them the street number but at least they are cheap.

We got tarted up a second time to go tangoing and went back to La Ideal milonga.  It's on the first floor over an old and authentic patisserie, lots of dark carved wood and mirrors. The milonga was buzzing.  We paid our 35 reals and a man asked if we wanted to dance or just watch, before taking us to a table at the side of the large dance floor.  I think we were probably the only foreigners there but what was surprising was that most of the dancers were also on their own and yet the floor was full.  Men do not ask ladies to dance so there is no embarrassment if they are turned down.  The protocol is that if you want to dance you stand up and walk towards the floor catching someone's eye.  When you connect, you nod towards the dance floor or raise your eyebrows and they respond and you go on to the dance floor and start dancing.  So we did. 

You dance four tangos in a row with a chat between each dance and then the music changes to let you know that you should return to your seats.  I danced with Pedro who said he had been a tango teacher in the past.  He was not impressed with my tango knowledge and said, "Let's just move round the floor". But my next partner, Diego, helped me by counting out the steps for me, holding me very close to his sweaty cheek and told me I was very beautiful.  I think he should have gone to Specsavers.  

Two particular dancers caught our eye.  One looked like Rod Stewart's dad in a natty outfit and the lady looked about twenty from across  the floor with her very mini skirt and visible black lace g string but close up was definitely my age but they sure could tango.  My phone was dead so I couldn't take photos.  However I will post some of Lynn's including a video later. It was a great experience to see ordinary people enjoying themselves dancing with lots of partners instead of watching a show put on for the tourists.

On the way back to the hotel, we stopped off at the Hyett Hotel which had fabulous gardens and we sat on the terrace and enjoyed a cocktail.  

We were hoping to catch a glimpse of Will Smith as others in our party had the previous day, but no luck.  However we did get a macaroon each in a little drawstring bag to take home, qué rico.  Walking back from the Hyett we passed a great little restaurant serving the usual huge portions but very cheap so we popped in to enjoy.

We had an early start next morning so thought a cup of tea in bed before an early night would be a good way to end the day.  I tried ringing room service but there was no reply, so Lynn went down to reception to order it and I got undressed. A few minutes later she rang up to the room to say we had to have our tea in the bar.  I was fuming as I had to get dressed all over again.  I managed to have a row in Spanish with the restaurant manager over the lack of room service even though It was offered in the info book in our room.  I do like a good rant in a foreign language.